
From wigs and weaves to skin-bleaching to the clothes that we use to cover or reveal our bodies, fashion and beauty are complex structural considerations for women in Africa, and at the same time immensely personal. Occupying diverse socio-cultural positions, we exercise different degrees of practical choice over how we dress and adorn ourselves, limited by sheer material means and the market forces and asymmetric commodity flows of globalisation, as well as by the host of norms of embodied appearance to which we actively subscribe or with which we are expected or made to comply. Constantly shifting, often conflicting, these norms are at once local and global; racial, ethnic and national; new, old, and much more. To cite Esi Dogbe, in Africa it is necessarily the case that we fashion and beautify ourselves “in the interstices of multiple cultural and socioeconomic grammars—colonial, local, global, and neocolonial. These grammars refract the very issue of ‘choice’”
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Editorial: The Politics of Fashion and Beauty in Africa
– by Simidele Dosekun
Features
African Women Do Not Look Good in Wigs: Gender, Beauty Rituals and Cultural Identity in Anglophone Cameroon, 1961-1972
– by Jacqueline-Bethel Mougoué
Contesting Beauty: Black Lesbians on the Stage
– by Zethu Matebeni
“These Girls’ Fashion is Sick!”: An African City and the Geography of Sartorial Worldliness
– by Grace Adeniyi Ogunyankin
Skimpy Fashion and Sexuality in Sheebah Karungi’s Performances
– by Evelyn Lutwama-Rukundo
Standpoints
The weave as an ‘unhappy’ technology of black femininity
– by Simidele Dosekun
Dreadlocks as a Symbol of Resistance: Performance and Reflexivity
– by Tendai Mutukwa
In Conversation
Profiles
Profile: ‘Keep Your Eyes off My Thighs’: A Feminist Analysis of Uganda’s ‘Miniskirt Law’
– by Sylvia Tamale
Reviews
Liberated Threads: Black Women, Style, and the Global Politics of Soul. By Tanisha C. Ford. Durham: University of North Carolina Press, 2015
– by Kabura Nganga
Regarding Muslims: From Slavery to Postapartheid. By Gabeba Baderoon. Johannesburg: Wits University Press, 2014.
– by Sa’diyya Shaikh
The Remaking of Social Contracts: Feminists in a Fierce New World. Edited by Gita Sen and Marina Durano for DAWN. London: Zed Books, 2014
– by Sehin Teferra
Tribute
Tribute: Hajiya Bilkisu Yusuf and Her ‘Jihad’ of the Heart (December 1952–September 2015)
– by Maryam Uwais MFR